Did I Really Meet a Ghost in Japan? Find Out Here!
For most of my life, I claimed to believe in ghosts. I thought that by believing, I could avoid any real encounters. This strategy worked well until last April when I traveled to Japan for research. There, I had a genuine experience with one of Japan’s most famous yūrei (ghosts).
A Journey to Mount Kōya
I spent April 17 and 18 exploring Mount Kōya, a sacred site in Japan and the heart of Shingon Buddhism. This mountain is home to over 100 temples, many of which welcome overnight guests. One of the most significant sites is Okunoin, a vast cemetery that holds the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, along with over 250,000 graves.
- Key Highlights of Okunoin:
- Peaceful Atmosphere: Despite its size, Okunoin is one of the most tranquil places I’ve visited.
- Historical Significance: The cemetery is rich in history and spirituality.
I spent five hours wandering through Okunoin, soaking in its beauty and serenity. That evening, I stayed at Ekoin, a Shingon Buddhist monastery.
A Nighttime Tour
After dinner, one of the priests offered an English-language tour of Okunoin. I eagerly joined, fascinated by the stories and history he shared. The tour concluded near Kōbō Daishi’s mausoleum, where the priest allowed us to explore on our own.
As I lingered to take photographs of the statues for my novel, I noticed that most of the group had left, likely to escape the cold. This left me alone, about an hour’s walk from the temple, in the dark.
The Mysterious Sound
I felt calm, having seen the cemetery in daylight. About halfway back, I paused to capture more photos of the lantern-lit monuments. Suddenly, I heard the distinct sound of traditional geta sandals approaching from behind. Wanting to be polite, I waited, listening as the sound drew closer.
When the sandals were right behind me, I turned, bowed, and said, “Good evening.”
But there was no one there.
The sound stopped the moment I turned. The path was empty in both directions, illuminated by lanterns. I could see clearly, and there was no one around.
A Frightening Escape
In that moment, I did what any curious historian would do: I ran. I sprinted until I caught up with a couple ahead of me, trying to catch my breath and appear calm. Only then did I slow down.
I followed them back to Ekoin, returned to my room, and lay awake for a long time, replaying the experience in my mind.
Understanding Betobeto-san
After reflecting on my encounter, I considered what I knew about Japanese culture and folklore. I believe the spirit I met was betobeto-san, a well-known ghost in Japan.
- About Betobeto-san:
- Harmless Trickster: This spirit is said to follow people along deserted paths, making the sound of geta that gets closer until they panic.
- How to Dismiss Him: To make him go away, you simply say, “After you, betobeto-san.”
Based on my experience, bowing and saying “Good evening” also seemed to work. After that night, I didn’t encounter anything similar during my two-week stay in Japan.
Belief in the Unseen
Some people are skeptical about ghosts, and that’s perfectly fine. I was only half-convinced myself until that April night. Now, I can say with certainty that I met betobeto-san.
Conclusion: A Personal Encounter
My experience in Japan changed my perspective on the supernatural. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, stories like mine add depth to our understanding of culture and history.
In the end, my journey to Japan was not just about research; it was a personal encounter with the unknown. So, the next time you hear the sound of geta behind you, remember my story. You might just be meeting a ghost!